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Jun “Turban Shells”

“Sazae,” or turban shells, are typical marine snails that you might start spotting around April and May, when sea temperatures go up. During this time, these snails become more active, making it easier to catch them.

In the past, many sazae were picked right off the rocks by “ama” divers—traditional female divers who free dive without fancy scuba gear. Even today, the ama culture stays strong in some regions, where they work together and support each other both in and out of the water.

Interestingly, sazae shells look different depending on where they’re from. In coastal areas like Sotobo in Chiba, where the waves and sea currents are intense, sazae grow noticeable spikes on their shells to help them cling to rocks and avoid being swept away. On the other hand, in calmer waters like the Seto Inland Sea, the shells are mostly smoother and less spiky.

When it comes to enjoying them, one of the best sazae dishes is called “tsuboyaki,” or shell grilling. You can make tsuboyaki by taking the meat out of the shell, chopping it up, and then putting it back in along with the seasoned broth and other ingredients like shirataki noodles and shiitake mushrooms. Then place the filled shell directly over a flame to cook it up! As it heats up, you can enjoy a great aroma from the seas, which nicely enhances the flavor of the dish.

Author

The Head of Kinsaryu
CEO and Executive Chef of Yanagihara Cooking School
Ph.D. in Fermentation Science and Technology

I was born in Tokyo into a family specializing in the Kinsaryu culinary discipline. Kinsaryu has been passed on from generation to generation since the Edo period (1800’s) and is a cuisine that specializes in the cooking technique of Edo (former Tokyo).
  
I’ve been teaching and researching ‘washoku’ (Japanese cuisine) and ‘kaiseki’ (traditional cuisines served at tea ceremony) at Yanagihara Cooking School in Akasaka, Tokyo, for over 20 years now.

I also oversee cooking for TV shows, like NHK's ‘taiga’ (or period) dramas and others, to help them present culinary details accurately. In 2015, I was honored to be named a Cultural Exchange Ambassador by the Agency for Cultural Affairs of Japan, and in 2018, I became an ambassador for promoting Japanese food for the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries. It’s been a joy spreading the word about what washoku has to offer around the world!

My specialty is Edo-period food culture and Japanese cuisine/culture, plus food education for children. I enjoy writing cookbooks and giving speeches on washoku.